Day 8: Haridwar

I love this swami! He sits on a golden throne in front of a family restaurant ringing his bell and wearing more eyeliner than Alice Cooper. His name is Chotiwala and he makes the best curd in Haridwar, a holy city in northeast India where Lord Shiva lets down his locks in the form of a river—the mighty Ganga.

Haridwar reminds me of Varanasi (in an uplifting kind of way). Both cities are very old with teeming ghats running along the same river. Sadhus are plentiful, living modestly and worshipping their deities of choice. The aarti ceremonies are awe-inspiring, using fire and song to glorify the five elements. And Lord Shiva is everywhere…

…watching over us with deep affection.

Reflections on the Ganges River

From dawn to dusk and dusk to dawn, the Ganga reflects, absorbs, merges and transforms. Surging from the locks of Siva’s hair as he sits atop the mighty Himalayas, it flows 1,600 miles southeast before spilling into the Bay of Bengal, touching the bodies and souls of millions along the way.

Varanasi: the Realm of Shiva

I was told millions of Hindus go to Varanasi to die; on the contrary, I believe millions go there to live. While bodies burn and spirits ascend throughout the day and night, this ancient city rejuvenates the soul, reminding us that we aren’t who we perceive ourselves to be — we are so much more, infinite beings in the cyclical drama of creation, experience and destruction.

 

New Delhi to Varanasi

The Manduadih Express from Delhi takes 15 hours to reach Varanasi, but leftover samosas, chai tea and great company make the trip worthwhile. Plus, being welcomed by spiritual murals is a nice way to jumpstart your pilgrimage (even if your soul doesn’t agree with the hard and lumpy bunk bed).